Here's most of the parts needed, except for a few LEDs and a bunch of stranded wire.From left to right:
Red switch, momentary. The original CSV uses a somewhat complicated switching system which doesn't allow for True Bypass. That's a problem if you want to pass your guitar signal straight through the pedal when it's off (not everyone worries about such things, but many do). I will use the momentary switch to activate the Vibrato effect, a DPDT to cut the 9v power On/Off, and another switch to bypass the signal. That's a whole lot of switchin' goin' on; you could do it all with a 3P3T switch if you want. The rackmount case I am using simply gave me a few switches to play with, so I used them.
Now another deviation from the original circuit. The first 2 pots in the photo will replace the "Speed" control pot on the original. That might seem to violate the Ockham's Rule of Gizmos: never use more components than you need. And a single ganged 100k pot is faithful to Danelectro's design. But you can get some groovy, out-of-sync vibe sounds if you use two separate 100k pots, and set them at different values. You can even tweak the two 100k pots to the point that the effect just makes a sort of "klop. . . klop" sound, which means that the pedal's sort of oscillating. Tweak them out of synch the other direction, and you can get a wah or envelope-follower sound. You can't get that with the original circuit.
The 3rd pot in the photo replaces the original "Intensity" control pot. I used a 50k; you can substitute anything in that vicinity. Linear, audio taper, it doesn't really matter.
Red switch, momentary. The original CSV uses a somewhat complicated switching system which doesn't allow for True Bypass. That's a problem if you want to pass your guitar signal straight through the pedal when it's off (not everyone worries about such things, but many do). I will use the momentary switch to activate the Vibrato effect, a DPDT to cut the 9v power On/Off, and another switch to bypass the signal. That's a whole lot of switchin' goin' on; you could do it all with a 3P3T switch if you want. The rackmount case I am using simply gave me a few switches to play with, so I used them.
Now another deviation from the original circuit. The first 2 pots in the photo will replace the "Speed" control pot on the original. That might seem to violate the Ockham's Rule of Gizmos: never use more components than you need. And a single ganged 100k pot is faithful to Danelectro's design. But you can get some groovy, out-of-sync vibe sounds if you use two separate 100k pots, and set them at different values. You can even tweak the two 100k pots to the point that the effect just makes a sort of "klop. . . klop" sound, which means that the pedal's sort of oscillating. Tweak them out of synch the other direction, and you can get a wah or envelope-follower sound. You can't get that with the original circuit.
The 3rd pot in the photo replaces the original "Intensity" control pot. I used a 50k; you can substitute anything in that vicinity. Linear, audio taper, it doesn't really matter.
The 4th pot is 100 ohm (not 100k) and replaces the trimpot in the original. I used a super-precise 1k pot that I had lying around. It turns over 20 times from stop to stop, which lets you get very delicate with the setting. Again, just a preference thing. I've used 100r with no problems.
At the bottom of the photo is a "Boss style" jack. You could get by with a metal jack if you rewired your power supply, but that can get complicated if you also house the pedal in a metal case, so I won't go into that here.
On the two 1/4 inch jacks to the right, note that the ground terminals are connected with a single wire. I put an "O" (for output) label on one to help me keep it straight as I'm installing it.
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