A closer view. As you can see, the blue and green wires make their way from the old In/Out jacks on the lower PCB, and eventually end up at the front panel, at the new jacks mounted there now. The wires take a detour at a DPDT switch on the front panel (toward the left in the photo). That switch permits true bypass, but remember, you can skip that if.

The twisted brown and yellow wires connect the "tempo" LED that I've mounted below the two pots on the front panel. (Note the resistor on one wire. I used a Yell/Purp/Brown resistor, and a beefy one at that, but there's a lot of flexibility there.) Although the grounds or negative leads are eventually connected, you do not connect them to the metal housing, or the backs of the pots, etc. This differs from the standard method used with ground circuits inside guitars and amplifiers.

The DPDT switch in the lower middle of the photo is optional. It breaks the circuit to one of the lugs on the pot immediately to its right. I found that this gives a slight change in tone, or maybe "character" is a better term. It's not a significant change, so you could easily ignore that step.

A few final steps.... make sure that your wires are firmly connected, even if only to each other. In addition, use solid core wire, plastic ties, string, or whatever to separate the soldered wires, and to route them in a coherent way. If the whole thing should drop (it's not a bad idea to drop test), you don't want the strain to be taken by the solder connections or the wires.

Next, I use heavy gauge wire, run through an open hole on the PCBs, to hold everything in place. In the photo, you can see where I have done this with the red wire in the middle of the photo. It goes through both PCBs, and then connects to a hole in the large board underneath. The thick green wire at the leftmost end of the PCB serves the same function. I ended up with excess wire running to the power switch, so I made sure to bundle that up too.

Lastly, you can see a small piece of plastic sheeting between the upper and lower PCBs. That makes sure that they do not short each other out. When I placed the cover on the housing, I secured another sheet on top of the PCB that you are looking at, so that it won't contact the metal box. Why not use screws to hold the PCBs? You could, but I never really liked that. The actual mass of the PCBs is minimal, and a stiff wire will hold them fine. Plus, if you bolt the PCBs down, any physical shocks to the housing will transfer to the PCBs. With the method I use, they are sort of spring-loaded.